#8 - Juliet Hammer

In this episode I chat with Juliet Hammer and her dog Addy. Juliet is a climbing coach and an experienced boulderer and sport climber. She has a degree in biology and she's a certified strength and conditioning specialist. We talked about:

• Juliet's climbing history
• Differences between bouldering and sport in terms of preparation, mindset and tactics
• Being a short climber
• Board climbing
• Coaching philosophy and shop talk
• Personal grades
• Social media, content creation and voluntary hardship
• Value capture as both a coach and climber
• Dangers of focusing on dopamine hits

00:00:00 Intro
00:02:43 Juliet's sport/bouldering identity & seasonality
00:16:02 Proper introduction, comp/cordo climbing, coaching indoors vs outdoor clients
00:25:27 Board climbing & being a short climber
00:30:31 Strength training
00:37:27 Coaching philosophy and shop talk
00:48:07 More short climber tips, self-comparison
00:54:43 Personal grades and the toxic wasteland of 8a.nu
01:00:41 Motivations
01:02:38 Jesse is ignorant about the southeast and complains about summer
01:05:51 More seasonality / sport & boulder logistics questions
01:08:08 Hot take 1, is climbing harder always more fun?
01:12:28 Hot take 2, are sport climbers better climbers?
01:13:56 Sport climbing vs bouldering popularity and value for progression
01:16:37 Content strategy and value capture as a content creator and coach
01:26:33 Dopamine hits, voluntary hardship, video beta and availability bias
01:42:55 Addy
01:45:09 Work with Juliet