Inner Fire Climbing Podcast

Thanks patrons for the questions this month! 
Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing
0:01:42 - Greg - If I was to add 20 minutes or so of focused time to make myself better each time, what would you suggest?0:07:21 - Kelly - How should I adjust my hangboard training on days when I am objectively weaker/extra fatigued?0:11:00 - Jake - What exactly does define a solid triangle? What makes one triangle particularly better than another? If I had a perfectly solid triangle position, how would shifting one foot or hand to the right, up, down, etc. affect the position and how I feel holding the position?0:16:30 - Anthony - How do you balance projecting versus doing things you can do in a session?0:22:07 - Jantina - Is avoiding the full crimp a sustainable approach for a climber who wants to continue to progress? How significant is the risk associated with full crimping? And how should climbers approach full crimping in training and performance climbing?0:32:10 - Ethan - If you woke up tomorrow morning and decided that next season you were going to go all in on trying to red point the hardest sport climb for yourself up to this point, such as the next grade from your current personal best, what would your training, preparation, and in-season strategy look like?0:41:46 - IG - How do you commit to a long goal when your day-to-day is telling you not right now?0:45:03 - IG - What was the hardest lesson for you to learn en route to becoming the climber you are today?0:47:55 - IG - What's a climbing or training topic you have changed your mind on the past few years?0:51:30 - IG - What are some good back/shoulder exercises that don't heavily involve the bicep?

Karly Rager is a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist (CSCS), an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor (SPI), and has over 13 years of climbing experience. Karly is the founder and head coach for Project Direct Coaching. On this episode, we talk about current project on the Cube in the Bighorn Mountains in Wyoming, what it's like to prioritize learning over sending, and how to choose a climbing coach.

Thanks patrons for the questions this month! 
Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing
0:01:52 - Olga - Describe your perfect climbing partner for bouldering and ropes if there's a difference.0:08:48 - Casey - What are all your Squamish microclimate tactical secrets?0:15:40 - Foo - Is climbing training solved?0:23:04 - Matthew - Do you feel that the ability to execute is more a physical or mental skill? And do you have any advice on ways to develop this skill further?0:28:32 - Sam - How do you know when retreating during a climb is an act of fear versus an act of discernment?0:31:28 - Jack - Why am I breathing so hard on sport routes?0:36:05 - Jantina - Why should someone work with a coach? Any other advice for climbers about how to find a good climbing coach and maximize the value of working with them?0:43:20 - Anthony -When and how do you recommend I train power endurance?0:48:00 - Rob - I'd be interested to know if you cycle your training, and if not, what your typical training week looks like.0:57:18 - Daniel - What's your plan for the rest of the year?

Hilary Sherman is scientist, climbing advocate, and local legend in the Northeast climbing scene.  Over a decade ago, she suffered a life changing injury while climbing. On today's episode, Hilary shares her story of resilience and her return to climbing at her peak form.

Thanks patrons for the questions this month! 
Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing
0:02:50 - Cian - What makes a good guidebook?0:09:05 - Daniel - Process for setting problems for oneself on a board0:13:30 - Jantina - Thoughts on Janja's ascent of Bibliographie?0:19:05 - Daniel - Best mobility exercises?0:25:30 - Anthony - Would you move a boulder to make a problem harder? (hypothetical)0:31:05 - Jishnu - How should weekend warriors think about in season training?0:35:35 - Cameron - Do you need to train off the wall to progress as a climber?0:40:00 - Sam - How does climbing progress when we reward people for following similar paths? 

Andy McVittie is a physiotherapist and climbing coach based in the UK. He is currently working towards building research-based guidelines for youth athletic development. On this episode, we talk about his personal climbing journey of over 30 years, what youth climbing needs right now, and pursuing fulfillment as a climber.

Thanks patrons for the questions this month! 
Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing
0:01:41 - Anthony - Balancing outdoor climbing with training
0:07:40 - Rob - Pacing, breathing, and mantras
0:13:25 - Cian - How different grading systems affect peoples' conceptions of their climbing
0:18:33 - Jantina - How often to chalk up
0:22:10 - Steven - Finding partners
0:27:18 - Instagram Q - Keeping stoke while injured
0:29:30 - Instagram Q - How has coaching changed my views on climbing
0:31:40 - Instagram Q - Is visualization necessary for limit climbing?

Henry Davis is a professional routesetter and coach based in Austin, TX. He coached and set for Team Texas, set for multiple training centers, and is one of the founders of the future climbing gym, The Workshop. On this episode, we talk about route setting, comp climbing, paths to skill development, and much more. 

Thanks patrons for the questions this month! 
Become a patron: https://www.patreon.com/innerfireclimbing
0:01:30 Ethan – Strength and finger training after an outdoor session
0:05:05 Josh – Improving high step ability and hip mobility
0:09:50 Jantina – Utility of off-the-wall balance exercises
0:13:05 Sam – Responsibility in developing climbing areas
0:19:25 Foo – What is “good form”?
0:22:50 Cian – Helmet when bouldering
0:25:20 Matthew – When to go for send attempts
0:31:00 Brian – Brushing ethics
0:36:15 Anthony – Crag dog etiquette

Karly Rager is a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist (CSCS), an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor (SPI), and has over 13 years of climbing experience. Karly is the founder and head coach for Project Direct Coaching. On this episode, we talk about her multi-pitch first ascent in Mexico, her strategies for hard projecting, her coaching focus, and much more.